Thin bright ruby, thinning slightly at the edges. Heavy petrol on fresh pour breathes out with time but is interesting to ponder. The essence of the bouquet turns out to be bright sharp fruit with a note of cumin glazing the alcohol above a pitchy dark fermented berry, everything coated with dusty tobacco.

Stolo Vineyard rests comfortably in the Central Coast’s little nest-egg of coolest-climate sites: Derbyshire, Stolo, Bassi Ranch, Spanish Springs and… Riven Rock? Kinda blankin out on the 5th one–and I know there’s five. I’ve had a half-dozen Pinots from Stolo Vineyard and they are so good, I easily gravitated toward this one on a list tonight.

In the mouth, meager and light, an early soft watermelon berry girths about it respectable briar and not much else. The ripeness here has not produced concentration, but has eroded bright nuance away into a smooth concoction. Impressive tannin takes over where the watery wet wood leaves off and leaves you looking wonderingly at a glass of expectations.

2014 BAKER & BRAIN Pinot Noir Stolo Vineyard San Luis Obispo County 14.1

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