Fight For Your Right

Bright dark pink. One of those wines which the density of in the glass will defy the mouth-feel, you KNOW it. Grenache and Pinot do this all the time. Of course, we all expect it from Pinot by now, but Grenache also can come in with very little color in the skin–and so of course it never translates into the wine. Round burly licorice and Borkum Riff bring a Cavendish aura of strength and beauty with not-so-delicate fruit and spice lingering. Ample air only exacerbates this complexity, and swirl after swirl lays a new bouquet mash. There’s a heady stench on this one, too: beautiful piles of wet leaves, orange rind, and sharp pine nuts muddled into fat blackberry, chainsaw bar lube and mango Jarritos.

In the mouth, instantly inviting. Mellow entry quickly raises a ridge of icy mineral which neither soothes or supplants the rich berry, but stiffens and intensifies its crescendo toward an impending finish you HOPE TO GOD doesn’t flame out–and it DOESN’T, an infinity-pool of chalky tannins s-l-o-w-l-y dry the whole thing out, never superseding or impeding the fruit. So perfect. So absolutely perfect.

THIS is why this was my favorite new discovery of Hospice du Rhone 2018.

2016 THE GRENACHISTA Grenache Mounts Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Sonoma 14.2

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