At All Coste

Dark ruby with dense edges.  Grainy, rugged glorious funk–dirty baby diaper suffocating barnyard and brett–inundates everything in the initial.  Fruit, emerald-tinged and heavily spiced, rolls out layers and layers of concentrated blackberry, strawberry stew, plum, asphalt and Swiss chard.  A wine you just CAN NOT stop smelling, filling every pore with pure, natural UMPH and deep red goodness.

So… you’ve HAD Provence Rouge before, right??? Oh let me guess: You only think Provence makes Rosé.  YOU ARE NOT ALONE.  I would hazard nearly ALL of the rose producers also make a red–and many make a white too.  It’s really common in restaurants there to see a single producer being offered, with the options Rouge, Blanc, ou Rosé underneath.  So much great red wine from Provence Americans rarely see.

In the mouth, a rusty file grinds away on crazy vibrant, chillingly acidic green berry and a sort of creamy licorice core, dense and solidly old-world.  Still very tannic at 7, and the fruit probably has another good 5 years on it but just beautiful to drink right now.  And at this price, who would expect might more?  This is well-distributed in the United States, so FIND IT.

2011 CHATEAU LA COSTE Cab/SY 55/45 Coteaux Aix en Provence France 14.0

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