Zin Moly

Translucent ruby with garnet edges. Wet rope, used matchstick and sunny petrichor down fat rails of ripe, briary fruit, chokingly dense and tannic, a mohawk of astringency down your tongue, all glued together with ridiculously bright fruit singing hallelujahs to all the plum and berry dieties.

I’ve had Plavac Mali ONCE before in my life, a very tired and poorly-stored Grgich years ago. Now I have some fresh beautiful bottles straight from Croatia and all this JUST having finished Sullivan’s eponymous book on Zin. And remember: I’m old. I lived through the whole Primotivo thing and have seen Zin morph almost unanimously from spry, cheap, ratchety darlings with proud heritage to fat, lumbering behemoths on 16-5 life-support.

This thing would get kicked outa Paso so fast it’d make your head spin. The Sierra Foothills would be like, Listen, son, it’s time to get serious. Most of Sonoma and even Dry Creek Valley has moved their styles far beyond this profile. It would be SO FUN to taste this alongside some of my favorite St. HELENA & Howell Mt. bottlings.

2015 STINA VINO Plavac Mali Brac Dalmatia Croatia 14.5

US: topochines.com

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