My theories on Zinfandel will be no surprise to loyal readers. As much as I love an elegant, well-structured wine with enough heft and finesse to sit in with world-class reds, it HAS TO TASTE LIKE ZINFANDEL. That is an important rule to remember with this variety! (and not too much heft, please–alcohols north of 15 start encroaching on my common sense).
Well leave it to the dudes at Deux Punx to make low-alc, natural, baby-doll Zin. Light ruby with garnet edges. Natural red wine essence in the nose. WTF does that even mean, I hear you say. Serious note. Those who know, know. Smoky without toasted oak, fruity like FR and Hawaiian Punch. Deep and grimy without ridiculous macerations. Fresh and alive without sulphur. Rich cherry and fresh bread, gorgeous lollipop and dragonfruit with a sultry green streak, warm and BBQ-y. And it smells like Zinfandel.
In the mouth, sweet beautiful fruit. Zinfandel, beautiful voluptuous Zinfandel under sheer nothings: every curve, every detail is visible. Roiling dark cherry transfers seamlessly onto acidic chalkboard where the next 5 minutes of your life is spelled out: Impossible early-California fruit is gradually undermined by green stemmy texture and the sizzle of a thousand sauces before rose hips turn their jilted petals into acerola angst and command your searing attention as you attempt to mop up buttery tannins.
This wine fuckin RIPS “California!” from every urban rooftop after-hours party and is a proud homage to a grape I honestly think a lot of people misunderstand.
And here I scribbled this whole thing without mentioning my ridiculous boner for Contra Costa County, OR how *old vine* is literally one of the most mis-used terms out there. Well done me.
2017 DEUX PUNX Zinfandel Contra Costa County 13.7