California Girls

Opaque chartreuse-y yellow. Intense sweet fruit, incredibly spirited hi-tropical and effluently floral, banana and lychee, MOUNTAINS of passion-fruit and a green dirty yellow-pages base, basking in a warm oily baseline of wet terracotta and bar-mat.

I’ve had several of this label’s white blends and they never put varieties on them. One of them–from a single Sierra Foothills vineyard–might even be a field-blend. This thing HAS to be Muscat–or partially. Maybe some Semillion. With the natural aspect of the wine though, anything can be possible. All I get to go on is “Contra Costa County”, which you KNOW makes me all moist. This ain’t Chenin though, baby. It’s not Riesling or Gewurtz. It is instantly Muscat–I’m stickin with that, but then…. Verdelho? Maybe some chard or Semillion. I don’t know–I don’t care. It smells good. Let’s taste it.

In the mouth, Thick and round, chubby even and then the brashness of all that lilikoi hits the roof of your mouth, tingly and pulling everything up into a spicy balance, sharp with acid but not biting, the rich Crenshaw and honeydew, green peach and even cranberry keep a bit of petrol and peat at bay but it lingers stubbornly, ready to dominate the finish alongside joyful acidic zing.

Beautiful stuff. Again. Over and over. It’s no accident I love this brand. These are the cleanest, most varietally-correct natural wines made in California. There’s enough attitude for all the young guns, but with enough finesse and style even an old jerk like me can get behind. I have NEVER ONCE tasted a wine from this label and said, “Why?” I can’t say that for every natural wine producer.

2018 DEUX PUNX “California White Wine” Malvasia Bianca/Chard/Muscat Contra Costa County 12.2

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