Faux Naughty

Deep ruby purple. Big pretty floral stemminess pounds your face, a crisp reminder of Syrah-goals but tempered with the warmth of the Sierra Foothills. Blackberry and Granny-Smith dusted heavily with anise and nutmeg–but not in heavy warm Cabernet sort of ways, no, a green 5-Spice-y sort of way, rife with attitude, edgy with ink, calmly, naturally gorgeous without contouring or push-up. So much life in a glass here. Peanut butter cookies and pine trees and wet jute and canned peaches and gardenia, all wound around a tight little blue-jean core of fruit sexy AF.

SOOOOO many fun projects coming out of the Sierra Foothills now. Gone are the days of burnt pruny old vine bullshit and red-dirt alcohol bombs and Zin-all-the-time. I’m sure those wines still exist, but I’m not seeing them. Every wine I experience from that part of California now is a light, bright stunner.

In the mouth, clean eggshells of cherry and currant barely crinkle under tannin and acids so relevant to the other properties, the whole thing is a bright swish of sunlight. A little more bitter green JUUUUST takes the flabbiness off the fruit, and prepares you for the tight little tannins waiting around the corner.

You may have never heard of this one, but if you’re into Sonoma Coast wines, or Jolie Laide or Drake Whitcraft or Margins or anything Kermit Lynch sells, find yourself some of this. You’ll feel guilty just kissing it.

2016 IRENE WINES Syrah Fenaughty Vineyard El Dorado County 12.4


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