Beautiful bright red. I mean–this wine’s headed into 5 years old and there’s not a speck of edge visible on it: not to the eyes, not to the nose, not to the tongue. Peachy blackstrap molasses, carefree oak and cherry nectar in the nose. One of the most beautiful wines I’ve smelled this week. It’s just mild and beautiful and lush and ridiculously spicy while carrying a certain volume of aplomb alongside. Absolutely perfectly balanced, but I’m only smelling it, so let’s move on.
Vibrant, juicy, stunning fruit on entry–still absolute nectar. The shrill squeal of acid is apparent early on but it does nothing to downplay the rich ripe fruit. Black cherry and raspberry and OMG every berry you can imagine on the planet comes out to play–on heroin–in this thing but it is not overripe, over-juiced or over concentrated. THIS ISN’T ONE OF THE WINES THAT GIVES PASO A BAD NAME! Lean and structured, your mind seesaws back and forth between is it the rich fruit or is it the beautiful structure that I love? Tannins kick in as you would expect from this variety–on an early plane, but nothing out of wack here.
I think Tannat suffers from a reputation of being blisteringly black and tannic and old-worldy and while I do enjoy those versions of it, this is a stupidly refreshing take on the variety. I have loved what Seven Oxen does with Tannat for many years and this is no exception. This is brilliant brilliant stuff.
Everybody thinks I hate Paso, and that is totally not true. I love Paso. And wines like this make Paso all the more beautiful for everyone. Don’t let the “tannat” on the label dissuade you from trying this wine. Just ignore all the precomposed opinions you may have about this variety, close your eyes and drink this wine. Just ridiculously good stuff.
2014 SEVEN OXEN Tannat Kiler Canyon Paso Robles 14.0