Local Hero

A little garnet but otherwise astonishingly well put-together for a 10yo Westside Paso merlot. *Probably* carmody-mcnight sourcing, and checking in at a ‘mere’ 14-5 for the extra point. Dusty rose in bouquet, fairly bright raisin and a little dirty-baby-diaper and peach fuzz along a rocky core.

Fairly flaccid in the mouth, medium fruit, barely any acidity, but a bit more than the fruit. I mean… It’s merlot: how hard ya gonna be on it at age ten. I’ve been WAY more critical of older merlots from far shinier AVA’s in CA. This thing’s plugging along nicely, doing all the right things, fading slowly into mediocrity with maybe another 2 years of good storage before it is an acid & tannin bomb–light as they both are. Still pretty juicy, and a testament to good winemaking. I mean–I can think of a million places this wine could be going (and have tasted them) but it’s NOT DOING IT.

Not mind-boggling by any stretch of the imagination but also not unpleasant in any way. Somewhat boring at this stage of its life but quite pleasant to drink, and working well with all kinds of food. If you see it, buy it, and have a remarkable evening with a piece of Ken Volk history.

This producer’s wines–despite the local adoration and the some-times exotic variety or locale–are always rather simple affairs, and I have learned from having quite a number of them over the past couple decades, to consume them under age 10. This one’s actually doing a bit better than some of the more interesting bottles of his I’ve played with–which is awesome because it is, after all, *only* Merlot.

2009 KENNETH VOLK VINEYARDS Merlot Paso Robles 14.5

volkwines.com

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