White on White

RICOSSA Cortese Gavi DOCG Piedmonte Italy 12.0 Light canary bright. A creamy cellar-y nose bursting with firecracker and concrete. Golden delicious and brushy boughs fill the nose, delivered with spicy aplomb. This is pure Cortese, with crushed stone infiltrating but the nose and continuing on in the mouth, alongside strong fruit. Ridiculously dry, delicate spice popping little zingers at your tongue, where dogwood blossom and a wealth of crisper fruit dodge all the acid. A beautiful and versatile white, with enough fruit to grant a perceived sweetness despite its gorgeous austerity.

TRIFULA Bianco Cortese/CH/SB DOC Piedmonte Italy 12.0 A most interesting nose of smudged rosemary and creamy applesauce. The smokiness is not necessarily a vanilla-oak sort as is usual in red wines or deep chardonnays, but melds more of an ultra-ripe cantaloupe or persimmon into a seamless breadth of grassy sweet/savory dashed with kiwi and new car. In the mouth, full and round with a concentration evoking heavy-handed Viognier. A crazy bargain of a wine which would work wonderfully with all kinds of food, from steak to spicy Asian.


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