Dark ruby, non-staining, with a thin clear edge. Big spicy nose, a fat chunk of beautiful oak, and the kind of deep blackberry jam, rich dessert and maraschino with an edge so vivacious and ripe it makes the identically-weighted concentration of thick viscous mineral a seamless part of the bouquet. Where the rich fruit ends and the clamoring structure begins is an impossible point to find–both churning goodness out of the worn leather and blood-orange bouquet in a crowd-pleasing package that will have you rolling your eyes into the back of your head.
In the mouth, a far lighter palate than you expected, poised and focused around crazy acidity and dryness that will have you smelling and re-smelling the luxurious nose which *could* dangle near flabby. Robust cherry and vanilla-ridden tobacco fills and soothes, jamming every pore with creamy icing, a thick briar approaching late-middle, lifting and enlightening the toe-curling green-berry shrillness into paint-removing acid and the kind of tannin you worship now and will massage you later.
This is the third 2015 Aglianico I’ve had in 24 hours, the Tenuta Del Meriggio I have well-documented as the rising star of the Taurasi region of Campania, a Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi DOCG I just HAD to order at lunch for ‘research’ because in my pre-trip snooping a very popular wine-book *cough* Karen MacNiel *cough* said was THE wine to visit in the region (nice fruit but not well-integrated, showing alarming tertiary for the age, a eucalyptus nose and smooooooth tannins), and now this Del Taburno DOCG.
Aglianico is an amazing grape I think WAY too many Americans are unfamiliar with. Let me put a few fears aside: It’s not WEIRD. It’s not Tannat. It’s not Mourvedre. It’s not Petit Verdot or even Counoise. It is a wine literally EVERY cab, Syrah and Petite Sirah lover will fall in love with.
2015 MASSERIA FRATTASI ‘Iovi Tonant’ Aglianico Montesarchio Campania Italy 14.0