Not Petered Out

Smoky green on the nose with a hint of tropical. Fresh-baked baguette cracked open on the sidewalk outside the boulangerie, maybe a cheesy dessert tucked into the bag for later. Herbaceous and nice, a chalky flora settles in on the watermelon rind, producing a bouquet round but restrained. No oak, no butter–but considerable richness, alongside a sterling silver and worn leather rustic elegance.

These Withers’ are so brilliant. Never a dull moment with these wines–ALL across the roster. From the rosé and gamay up through their myriad of Sierra Foothill GSM’s all the way into their single-vineyard burgundians from Sonoma Coast, this new winery is a solid buy in quality, value AND diversity. And really cool people to boot.

Tight and crisp and green on entry. Actually… that could be said all the way through. Biting acid eats away at the fruit AND your mouth, leaving slivers of tropical and melon behind in the former and causing teeth-wiping in the latter. SOOOO ridiculously sharp and bright, a Granny Smith pang of religion oozes all over, dashing the nuttiness of the nose into cranberry-salad dreams, grassiness, crazy citrus and even tannin charm the finish. There’s definitely an impressive bitter rasp stroking the last of the fruit down your throat. WSET-1 will be like: dude, there’s no tannin in chard you moron, but I don’t care. It’s there. Embrace it.

Would love to taste this in a decade. This is one of those whites…. so shockingly acidic, so balanced, so completely UN-women-who-drink-chardonnay-ish. Not even really California. I mean–this is shockingly charged stuff, but it still has the top and bottom of Chardonnay. As they should. I want to open a young Chablis alongside this so bad.

2018 THE WITHERS Chardonnay Peters Sonoma Coast 13.4

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