Sharp buttery nose. Now I realize what happens every time I use ‘butter’ in a white wine review. Some little somm-dexter in the front row shoots up their hand. Listen, just because your mom drinks Meridian doesn’t mean I can’t use the word ‘butter’, and loyal readers know the word is always qualified with another descriptor. Every thing out there in a glass isn’t nearly as black & white as they made it sound in your WSET-1 class. Sharp buttery nose. A fatty foundation is under-pinned with spicy herb and mineral. Or is it the other way around? A spicy foundation is woven with fatty under-pinnings? I think actually the latter. Green and gorgeous to smell, a richness of melon and pear and peach-blossom equal to the dusky, dusty cloud encompassing the bouquet.
There’s nothing quite like Chenin. This winery is always in my Top-10 TR suggestions when out-of-towners query. That recommendation usually gets a little raised eyebrow from those moderately familiar with the brand. This is a well-done label top-to-bottom in the roster, but yes, there are some really user-friendly entry-level wines with almost embarrassingly un-snobby marketing (read: TO THE 99) at one end of the rather lengthy line-up. But this doesn’t look like the Field Recordings label you’re used to now does it? Relax, gentle reader, McConnell’s not gonna steer you wrong. This wine–and its Derbyshire Pinot sibling–rests quietly down at the very end of the row. not cheap, not gaudy, not average.
Rich and creamy in the mouth, but with an almost-spritzy charge revealing early and tingling far into the finish. Applesauce and pineapple bitterness give taste-buddal-orgasms (TBO) easily and happily while the middle thins out to near-quaffable refreshment. But this is not a quaffing wine. This wine means business. Beautiful through & through.
2017 FIELD RECORDINGS Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park VYD Santa Ynez Valley 11.3