Bottle Number One

Deep amber gold with a hint of ruddiness. Initial pitchy eucalyptus pine-resin blows off to a smoky, baked roundness of dessert and heavily-carmelized baked goods. Cinnamon pull-aparts. Glazed croissants. Pumpkin pie. Carrot cake.

I’m guessing a considerable amount of skin-contact is at work here, along with zero oak, but it doesn’t have a SS quality to it–far more rustic and reduced. But not oxidized. Fruit in the nose is a bit raisin-y, as gold as the color, pear tinged in an eensy mint, and that’s about it. Tasting it comes with vague expectations. Where will it go?

A conflicting sort of roundness and rubber on the tongue. Clean and light initially, gradually increasing in depth and intensity as sensors are coated. Quite delicate in the mouth, but sure-footed apple and sauced cranberry make their way steadfastly across the palate with some of the latex and euc in tow. A wash of bitter accompanies the first swallow, super-charged with reduced-fruit concentration and filling all voids with aplomb.

A very strange wine. Not in a bad way, just pulled in a couple directions and completely failing to comply with *normal* assumptions. Light and brisk as a 7-Up in places–complex and derivative as a fig newton in others. This guy is doing some really interesting stuff and definitely is one to watch.

2018 SABELLI-FRISCH Marsanne Sierra Foothills California 12.5

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