Gamy and green in the nose. Sharp tropical invades, pushing waves of acid along with it, riding a rock-on-rock spark of flinty dust. Tight and unswerving in its focus, slight barnyard creates a roundness fulfilling all Albariño expectations. Used match morphs from the mineral, and as it warms, all the robust clangs of fruit become apparent.
Full and mouth-filling. A thickness across the tongue defies imaginations of the variety or the vineyard. Almost spritzy on attack, the bite of acid develops effortlessly into an almost-tannic realization by late-middle. Dull maturation of melon and peach play with dense nutty concentration, neither pushing or pulling awkwardly against the robusticity–or the rusticity–of all that acidic sex. Rich and luxurious in the finish–ripe and fluid–all that spritz attacking the sides of the mouth, gaining grip but never over-powering the sweet density of this wine.
Wow. Just wow.
2016 WILSON FOREIGNER Albariño Rorick Vyd Sierra Foothills California 13.2
Stephen McConnell 