Effusive oak, matchhead and acerola bedded down on a firmly dark-fruited set of aromas. Fat chunks of chocolate and blackberry flirt with a teensy bit of acridity–creating an abrasive end to an otherwise quite fleshy nose–despite a fair quantity of dust and funk. On one hand young and infantile-smelling; on the other hand chunky-monkey blockbuster concentration pulls in the *rich dark ruby & serious legs* direction–a morbid sex-scene, but with sandpaper involved.
In the mouth, perfect thin cherry, sweet and rich in *fruit-quotient*, going thick and black near-middle before the wheels start coming off the machine. And by that I don’t necessarily mean *crash & burn*, I merely mean it morphs into a COMPLETELY different beast about halfway across your tongue. Quite shocking bitter grapefruit rind explodes. It has more of a green-briar feel to it but tinged in alcoholic heat. The late-raspiness in the nose definitely translates straight across onto the palate. Finish is all angry birds.
Really torn on this wine. This is one I am not quite ready to say is out of balance but also am not quite ready to wholeheartedly endorse. A reverse mullet: Party in the front–Business in the back. Except the party is a little too chubby and the business is a little too aggressive. Does that spell out of balance? Kinda does, huh? But this is pinot, baby. We’re all gonna look at it differently. I can’t write a review for pinot you like and you won’t understand it if I do. How do you even put pinot on paper? It should be a sin to write a pinot review. How about this: If you want a pinot fat and luxurious up front for a nano-second before degenerating into tannic and acidic hell-fire, THIS IS IT. Better yet: Get a bottle, let me know what you think. Even better: Get a few bottles, let them rest for a year or two, THEN tell me what you think. I’ll be right there with you on this one. Far and away the most ridiculously structured pinot I have had this year. But you kinda need to decide for yourself if that’s structure.
2018 MARITANA Pinot Noir Martaella VYD RRV Sonoma 13.5