Straight Cab

This has a nice oily thick sharp fruit to it. Bitter green sassafras and grapefruit zest, cool spring water and the heady octane-infused memory of static-charged wires with a fat helping of sagebrush and fresh oak.

Probably the least known of the Paso Robles *bling* grouping, and put together with more straight cab influences than many. Meaty and dark, it expresses pure cab essence easily and elegantly with very little of a yee-haw wild-west notion as the label–or other Paso cab producers–would suggest. Decadent black cherry clogs the nose, sharpened with mint and cassis, the smoky vanilla smoothing out the rasp of youth but not defaming it.

Gorgeous spice and volatility at the first sip. Moderate in all things except explosive taste, gritty thick berry combines dusty efflorescence with gobs and gobs of clear bright cranberry and green fig. I don’t think this is super-hi in alcohol either–something Paso chronically suffers from. I’m going to go with a nice, safe 14-5. There’s no heat or dull round ripeness, just phenomenal concentration on a ballet-dancers face.

Paso’s all grown up, kids. You can’t just write it off as gurgling rivers of zin-bitch and endless rosters of craftily-named GSM’s any more. Cabernet has emerged as something Paso is really GOOD at, and I–along with Daniel Daou–feel the region’s reputation will eventually be realized on it. Paso Robles grows magnificent cab. And this is one of them.

2016 THOMAS WILLIAM FERMENTATION COMPANY Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 14.5

www.twfermco.com

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