What a sexy Syrah. Greasy, grimy, green-smoky nose, packed with anger management, horse-piss, grapefruit minerality and the kind of dirty shit only a few producers can muster. Fruit an acai-thin streak and acidity you can SMELL. Varnish and armpit, the savory volatility is nose-plugging and goosebump-generating, a most-severe version of the variety the 99 will lash out against for its hair-raising rebellion against all things smooth and supple. But there IS a suppleness to it–one most of my following will appreciate. A Northern-Rhone bouquet grouping of barnyard and absolute LIFE that begs consideration.
In the mouth, salty perfume dances momentarily before the under-pinning bleaches the skin off all membranes. Still-infantile with an almost-Chinon or Cru Beaujolais green verve, it conveniently packs the utmost amount of dizzying disgust for all things *red blend* into its purple-edged fury, bringing new definitions of pomegranate and pie-cherry into the vernacular. Dirty to an extent, the whole package is about as “freshly-tilled” and stemmy as one can handle. Raspberry thinness trickles down the throat–every sip iced with that gritty nose–blistering tannins etching the finish.
A masterpiece of Syrah.
2015 WILDE FARM Syrah Halcon Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Mendocino Co. 12.6