Gravely blue eyes and auburn hair, mugwort and honeysuckle and the stuff on your fishing line when you get too close to the weeds. Fish scales and salmon flesh. Dill and white pepper on jerky. Ash on cheese. Pine nuts in balsamic and the arc the scrape of an iron bolt makes on concrete. Rich Cherry leather, naturally a fair chunk of art Deco theater seats and failing plaster.

Much less flowery in the mouth, squatted at a rather plain center-point in Cornas’ inarguably long life. Arrow straight, flashy fletching twisting gently on the slim midsection driving the iron point home. The thing I always find surprising about this–probably my second favorite of the entire rhone region–is how the tannins can be as complex as the nose. These things gradually grind in their beauty, more dust in the delirium of goodbyes, glimpses of light sparkle through at each curve and by the time you hit the end of the driveway it’s clean sailing on a velvet smooth strip.

2010 JEAN LUC COLOMBO ‘Terres Brulées’ Syrah Cornas Rhone France 13.0 Zieher glass

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