Light grimy browned croissant on first pour, a crusty sort of earth and match-head, but with icing. With a little air, a deeper candied fig and burnt cherry evolves nicely. Slowly, green squished-bug pinot rises up, round with ripeness, but great little zesty citrus and raw beef circling the rootbeer and raspberry. As usual with this producer, top pinot characteristics surface slowly and smackingly but right on cue. It’s still not a lush monster–nor is it particularly elegant. It relies on the dedication of true pinotphiles toward all things interesting and NOT boring.
In the mouth, a cool sustained entry immediately turns sharp and vibrant. Thin cherry keeps the senses alert and a watery, refreshing, mountain-spring middle is like thin cold Koolaid on a hot summer day. An action-packed late-middle packed with sweet wheat biscuit crackers and minuscule fruit riding on grainy grapefruit charms and woos but the dark berry steadily grows into the finish, again decrying the lightness and delicacy of this wine. In movies they call it ‘paced’, which translates for non-film-buffs and people with short attention-spans as “slow” or “boring” but intellectuals find it stimulating and not insulting. What if I told you not EVERYTHING needed to be explained?
This is thinking-man’s pinot and by the time the churn of tannin generously coats your tongue–failing in its mission of obliterating the fruit–you’re back to Square One: putting this crazy puzzle of pinot together. All so different. What was the winemaker thinking? What do the grapes say? Why can’t it just TELL me? Why is this variety so interesting? You just answered it for yourself.
2018 LORING WINE CO Pinot Noir Rancho la Vina VYD Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara Co. 14.3