A little bretty funk right off the get-go turns instantly to buttered popcorn and sauteed mushrooms. Grassy-green on your next impression, a little classic roundness creeping in to make sure you know you’re drinking Chardonnay. Tiny little ashtray and egg, sweet lime and melon lay down eensy-weensy smoky-warm roast-meat layers of interest, assuring–on one hand–it IS well-fruited, but on the other: solidifying an unusual version. This thing started out way too cold–in the 45° area–and now getting up to proper temp, it develops a lot more interest: but also a lot more curiosity.

This is not a chard your mother is gonna grab off the shelf and go housewife-grip on at an Avon party. It smells of wild yeast and used barrels, ridiculously tight and acidic even with nuances of sur lie. Quite a feat and I am not expecting it to stray far from the nose in the mouth.

A ball of straight fire on the palate. Bitter and bright and petrolific, the fruit is astringent kiwi, citrus, acerola and black tea all crammed into a ball of white magic you have to positively CHURN through to process. Where the acid leaves off and the tannin begins is a moment requiring several passes through to determine. Pine-pitch and weedy, there’s a rich voluptuousness but oh man you gotta do some soul-searching to grasp it. Finish literally goes on for decades: a steely barb of briar twisting sensors convulsively around a core of structure difficult to imagine in California. I’m shocked at the ABV.

This is not a wine for everybody, but it’s brilliant. I’m not saying it’s mind-bogglingly good. I’m certain critical judgement could be leveled against it. And certainly the yawning nabobs of passivity who clutch the same boring bottles of golden supermarket nectar week after week are going to DESPISE it. I’m thankful for my followers on wines like this. I highly recommend this wine–and it is one you will never forget. Solidly smacked down FARRRRR over on the geeky-scale, it’s a conversation in a glass. If you don’t own any Riesling: don’t buy this wine. If Sancerre and Petit Chablis are foreign terms: don’t buy this wine. If you’ve ever snuck a 6-pack of cru-Bojo or Chinon into the house, you’re getting warm. If Sonoma Coast is your playground, def seek it out.

2018 DUNITES WINE CO Chardonnay Edna Valley 13.7


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