Rare Bird

Milky garnet with a tiny bit of amber before the clear rim. Definitely not clear. Earthy nose, ripe fruits and a spasm of mild vegetal characterize the plummy overtones. Tertiary on Zinfandel outside of Napa/St. Helena is always a bit vague, but of course it also depends heavily on the style originally. Here we are barely at 9, and while still a bit blustery–even a bit sweet-feeling–everything is still bright and calm with barely-noticeable affects of age. All the cool things about Zin are there, but it hasn’t started laying down any dusty leather tracks.

In the mouth, sublime dark berry attacks. Clean blueberry, raspberry and rose-hip nod to a wine half this age–NOWHERE are plush jammy nuances or overt plumpness so often indicative of this variety. Acid wanes, but the polished grip of mild tannin allows over-looking, still NOWHERE is an out-of-balance vision. I can’t find anything wrong with this wine–or at least anything I personally dislike about it–something quite rare in my tasting of Zinfandel. Dark, briary late-middle add to the complexity.

A flat-out beautiful wine from the 530. Tight and packed with subtle promise, one of those rare wines which just leave you shaking your head in awe. A rare Zinfandel. Atypical only in the way most Zin has become the past 20 years. This is done right.

2011 CARINI WINE Dubakella Zinfandel Hyampom Grel Ranch Vyd Trinity County California 14.2


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