Pounding grassy green with a massive *oops I stepped in it* side of dog-park funk. Just shy of car-fire, the volatility of the barnyard and dirty-baby-diaper cause a blink or two. Palest of straw with slightly visible bubbles. All the trunk-junk completely obfuscates the fruit in the nose. Is there fruit? Oh yes I am sure of it. How do I know? Well, I’m kinda guessing, but there is a roundness to the bouquet that tells me everything is gonna work out OK.
And it does. Beautiful little apricot nymphs dance around on a platform of wet earth. A shocking sprite of acid steers the mid-palate. At far-too-cold temperatures, the nose is straight floral and the spritz is about it in the mouth. Warming it up to a workable area, the very pronounced subtleties of this variety–AND THIS VERSION OF IT FOR SURE–begin romancing you.
It’s a shockingly good white wine, but man oh man are a lot of people gonna be turned off by it. There is no way in HELL chardonnay-mom is gonna touch this stuff. Influencer on her mission to convince sauvignon blanc is a great wine could possibly look the other way, but even grenache- or chenin-blanc people might take offense. It’s a startling package–not for the weak of spirit–and I LOVE it, right through the tinny sweetness of the tannic finish.
2017 WEINGUT MARIA HICK Muscat Blanc ‘Terrassen’ Ried Stiegelstal Wachau Austria 12.5