This odd youngster from California grips you first with its dark purple ruby and wide clear rim. The nose is a bit shocking to me–as I don’t drink a lot of really fleshy, fruit-forward wines. I drink ripe wines, I drink concentrated wines, I drink massive wines, and I definitely drink fruity wines (not saying all of these are my *preference* but in the course of reviewing wines you have to drink everything) but I don’t drink a lot of young, Italian or Spanish varieties that are famous for fresh, in-your-face, bubblegum, Juicy Fruit, candy apple, stick candy fruit. And boy does this one have that in SPADES.
As the swirl is dissipating and your nose is entering, RIGHT THERE for a fleeting second is a distinct Pepsi Cola earthy spritz. It instantly morphs to lush chubby berry, anchored firmly in gobs of milk chocolate, vanilla and cut grass. It is a heady experience to smell, that is for SURE. So bright, so vibrant, so squirtingly juicy and stainingly ripe. It feels like it *trying* to play with darkness–and some spice and heat and briar agree–but it is smore like a toddler clomping around in mommy’s sexy heels.
Then you taste it. Berry-bright and zangy, it curls your tongue with acid BUT ONLY after slathering it with a gentle bracing layer of jelly. Gone are any suggestions of chocolate and vanilla–thank Dog–as it goes STRAIGHT FRUIT with sweetness in the place of tannin and acid in the place of spice. It’s like putting pomegranates, cranberries and firm currants in a blender and waving an oak wand over it.
See now, a LOT of things could have been done with this wine. This thing could have sat and thought hard about all its sins for another year in a barrel and you’d have a completely different monster. And no one would complain. Because they would have never tasted this. But here, they have brought absolute NECTAR to glass and everyone’s smarter about wine because if it. It pains me to see so many of my friends drink giant, rested, barrelled, plush-lushies every day and never experiencing wine this ALIVE.
2019 BROKEN EARTH Nero d’Avola Paso Robles California 13.9