Just one more thing

#influencer Review: Without roots you cannot fly! #storytelling

#okboomer Review: 92

Real Review: Baked and vegetal, a dank funky nose from the staining ruby with certain brick. Breaded and braised meat, a lamb-lanolin greasiness fulfilling all your country-wine fantasies while maintaining a rather modern cleanliness. But it’s old-world: there’s no denying it, and a heavy decant clarifies the fruit into berry pigeon-holes but still leaves room for sweaty, briary goodness California rarely exhibits.

This wine shows both the clunky curvaceousness typical of classical Cornas and the modernity demanded by wine-drinkers of the past decade. It’s somewhat of a negociant wine though, and keeping that in mind is important to understanding its progression. This is NOT the unapproachable, ridiculously tight version of the region we all carefully enjoyed in the 80’s and 90’s, but it also is not the somm-darling’s which have grown astonishing price-tags as ‘Cornas’ became a household word in the new century. And at 10, it is honestly feeling somewhat at peak–something almost unspeakably irreverent considering the appellation.

In the mouth, glassy Syrah raspberry and considerable tertiary gloss the tongue while heavy acid and the onslaught of tannin clamor joyously in the background. Fruit is an even-keeled application, thin in areas Paso and the Sonoma Coast would scoff at but showing the pure blustery spirit South-northern Rhone Syrah HAS to be judged by. Sweet and concentrated, no latex, asphalt or vegetal, the delicious fire of cherry and pomegranate has only a few steps to take before structure kicks in. Bitter, briary tannins bring painful sting to healing cuts, but the polish is apparent and I have a hard time believing this thing has another decade.

2010 JEAN-LUC COLUMBO ‘Terres Brulees’ Syrah Cornas France 13.0


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