The third version from this young winemaker, it comes off far more stemmy-vegetal than the opulent tropical fruit of the first one. A green, uric nose covers the fruit below, and blind, I probably would have guessed Sauvignon Blanc. Tiny bits of petrol blend nicely with the mild lychee and white grape lurking, but they take a bit of looking.

Tasting it fills the mouth with sharp acid and grapefruit minerality, a raspy, somewhat bitter texture more stone and briar than fruit. Where the first two vintages overflowed with enough sparkling fruit to capture the lowest-ranking palate or even a sweet-wine drinker, this one is far geekier, reflecting qualities we look for and adore in European wines. Packed with structure, the finish literally feels tannic, soily aspects of fruit quite thin in the background. Still, it’s a mouth-filling drop, and not without charisma and character.

2020 ARIANNA Torrontes Silvaspoons Vyd Alta Mesa AVA Lodi California 13.5

www.arianna.wine