The fruit pouring out of this black thing is nothing short of eye-crossing. Charred and dusty, concentrated into thick elixir, dried figs and cranberries, raisin and praline. And yet, not “pruney” or “raisiney” or even particularly *burnt*, just a rich reduction of dense ability more stewed dessert than anything: massive briar churns at the edges, pine and gravel, feeling much like a mountain wine from Howell or Spring or Sonoma. It needs a lot of air, but doesn’t really *settle down* substantially, layers of decadence KEEP peeling off. So much heady floral, so much pith and dark spirit, so much to dissect.
Oh God, HOW would you pick a favorite single-bottled Bordeaux variety? Cab is king, but can get so boring. Merlot rules ALL but can be a bit type-cast. I prefer my Cab-Franc in Loire-style versions, and Malbec doesn’t pull a lot of levers on my palate. I love them all, but PV–in the rare occasion you find it–can easily ring bells with pure brute force and aplomb.
Tasting it is a surprise of textures. Despite my feeling it is very near 15-oh, it is cool and collected, bursting with life, rife with acidity and ridiculously dry. Headed into 7 years, I would KILL to have a few of these for the long-run. It drinks with the youth of a barrel-sample, yet displays a richness and impeccable balance. The floral comes effortlessly through the bouquet onto the palate: violet and rose, bitter chocolate wound around the crazy pomegranate and cherry, drifting off seamlessly into the finish calm and clear. Tannin… and oh wow: the tannin!
Is this the best wine I’ve had from this producer? I could make a solid argument. I was shaking my head that this could be from Paso, and sure enough: it’s from up in San Benito Co. IT IS STILL FOR SALE ON THE WEBSITE! and I BEG you to purchase as much as you can afford. If you don’t think it stunning, I will refund your money personally.
2015 POMAR JUNCTION Petit Verdot San Benito Co. California 15.2
Stephen McConnell 