Pale legal pad in the glass, a most surprising little quaffer from Hungary and I could dig this all day long for 14 bucks. Calm, easy nose smacking of green vegetation and warm afternoons around the pool, grippy mineral-citrus inflects tiny bits of charisma to a very Riesling-ish sort of bouquet.
Back-loaded in the mouth: the entry equally pale and austere, metallic grinds of gritty grate introduce themselves mid-palate and bring a pleasantly-bitter seriousness to the table. The fruit runs chubby melon through green grape–everything playing off a Granny Smith ache of acidity. Tingly in its pointedness, it feels almost tannic in finish: watery and beautiful start-to-finish. A gorgeous wine, wittily un-stuffed and charmingly sharp.
2019 COUNT KAROLYI Gruner Veltliner Pannon Hungary 12.0
Stephen McConnell 