Pretty much sitting where you would expect at 11 for the little ‘Sonoma County’ version, I expect greater things from the Alex or Napa Valley, but this is holding it’s own quite nicely. NEVER intended for this kind of age, it is still interesting to see what they can do when forced by cellar forgetfulness. Dark and dreary in the nose, all toasted and roasted berry, deep and dark, still managing a spritely briar and vegetal in its seriously browning texture and look.
Sweet and non-offending in the mouth, raspy tannins still ply these waters, narrowly dodging chubby, slow-moving boats packed with wilted cherry and soggy blackberry. It’s a lovely wine to drink–full of memories and glorious patina–but understandably not stellar. Clean and simple, the effects of age polishing things that were never there: anyone who has tasted seriously-aged cheap–but well-made–Cab know what I am talking about. It’s not a conversation-piece or even an asterisk. Just old, cheap wine. But wine that was well made. This is an important distinction. Not every mid-shelf cab can do this. Martini’s legacy DEPENDS on these wines doing this–that’s what sets old-school producers apart.
2008 LOUIS M. MARTINI Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 13.9
Stephen McConnell 