The Paso Equilibrium

This is a very well-balanced wine–blended to near-boring levels–and with points of nuance pointing several directions. Like the DuBost Red Wine I reviewed last week, no indication of component on label–something I actually ENJOY, as it really causes almost-blind reflexes to be stimulated. But this one is clearly no mop-the-floor red blend–hinted at by both the $tunning packaging and smell & taste.

Dark clear ruby-purple, actually quite transparent in the glass, but with pink rim producing quite a stain on the bowl. Heady black cherry, influenced by solemn oak, round and ripe and sultry, a blackberry-rhubarb generating copious leathery earth and a patina of subdued eloquence defying its 2 years of age. Although packaging would suggest otherwise, I am not convinced it is a straight Meritage: while Cabernet is obvious–with possible Merlot component–I’m feeling a fat chunk of Syrah is doodling around in here.

In the mouth: no surprises. Fleshy and rich, lacking invigorating suspects of at least 3 of the classic Bordeaux varieties, it pounds blood-orange and pithy pomegranate onto the tongue–all in a crisp–but ripe–smooth delivery. Thinner than I expected (that’s a GOOD thing), it is a charismatic, acidic, tightly-structured blend. A plummy, cheerful–and again: fleshy–note almost verging on Zinfandel rises and falls throughout, providing an interesting counter to the obvious Cabernet grind. A great blend–not classic: but Paso–I am guessing well north of 14-5 but plenty of sharp jabs making it an interesting bottle on the table with PLENTY of charisma.

2019 DUBOST ‘Vingence’ Red Wine Cab/SY/GR/Zin 50/20/20/10 Adelaida District Paso Robles 15.0

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