Nice momentary barnyard on initial nose, clearing out to clean citrus and flint. Jasmine and natal plum plump out vanilla and peach fruit in a racy bouquet not-quite Burgundian and not-quite RRV luxuriousness. Petrol takes center-stage, mingling richly with the oak programme and concentrated stone-fruit.
In the mouth: unmistakably Californian, but tempered with a shock of acid driving minerality ripely into almost blood-orange levels. Apricot and green fig add chewiness and thick-fruit palpability onto a texture ripped deep with chunky structure. Graphite, carborundum and peach-pit drive straight through the perceived richness and fullness of body. Even at 5, this wine is barely hitting its stride, and shows another decade + of gorgeous possibilities. A most remarkable Chardonnay, and one well worth seeking out.
2016 DONUM ESTATE Chardonnay ‘Year of the Monkey’ Single Vyd Carneros Sonoma
Stephen McConnell 