Impromptu little gathering with lots of wine, and grabbed a couple bottles more *safe* than interesting. Actually, the sparkler is easily in the ‘Interesting’ category, as EVERYONE lets out a shock when they see the label. Literally NO ONE knows about this wine–and that’s a shame.
2008 KORBEL ‘Natural’ PN/CH 65/35 Russian River Valley Sonoma 12.5
2010 CLOS DU VAL Cab Napa Valley 13.5
The bubbly showing characteristic amber and plenty of bubbles, the nose creamy and floral, touches of toasted almond and marzipan alongside pear fruit. In the mouth, the creaminess continues, but far crisper than one would expect at 13. Bright apple and still-green apricot rule here, the nutty finish still showing yeast. I don’t typically care for these much over 10 years old, but boy oh boy is this thing a beauty.
The cab presents a situation for me I never dreamed I would have to say–and a bit disappointing. I don’t think the fruit exists in this wine for the long-run. There I said it. I hate admitting this about a brand classically capable of DECADES, but heavy observation over the past 20 hours with this bottle leave me no choice. There just isn’t any fruit in it. Not enough to out-live the tannin, that is. This was incredibly evident during the first 5 hours with the wine, as each search came up void of anything lasting. Likewise the morning after, where the light cherry has developed into a flabby, burnt rubber fantasy still COMPLETELY surpassed by obliterating structure. I can’t help but gently remind: This is an all-too-common refrain with highly-rated VINTAGES OF THE DECADE. I’ve got a few more 10’s, and will be keeping a close eye on them.
Stephen McConnell 