This is some pretty hedonistic stuff. Rich golden yellow, a lazy thread of bubbles continuous after initial heady foam. Golden Delicious apple and fresh sweet French roll fill the creamy nose, the dull polish of age and petrichor anchoring the otherwise rather austere bouquet.

In the mouth, tight brightness jabs every sensor. Pear and kiwi toast a citrus headed more toward *lime* than an expected ripe Meyer lemon. It’s brash and bitter, the almond and hazelnut raw and oily, a savory sea-cliff cold, brown-grassy and wind-swept. Startlingly bright, clean and streamlined, dry-as-a-bone and brilliantly acidic, at 7 it shows *touches* of maturity, but has the stuffing to go two more decades. These are astonishing sparklers, and fit perfectly into my preference for low-dosage feats of citrus austerity–but with plenty of fruit and classic form.

2014 LETRARI ‘Grand Millesimi’ Dosaggio Zero Reserva CH/PN Disgorged 10/19 Trentodoc Italy 12.5

http://www.letrari.it/