You never really know what to expect from this little winery: the labels grab you first–there’s no denying–and if you are one of those who buy wine for the pretty label (and I know there’s a TON of you out there) this is unbeatable! I don’t–and you shouldn’t either–but In Serrata makes a strong argument. But we’re here for the stuff under the cork, of course. White Sangio is not super-common the the US, and that’s a crime, as it almost always makes a compelling *white wine* discussion. If you’re bored with Chard, put off by Sauv-Blanc, or find the Rhone-trifecta ponderous, find some Sangiovese Blanc, as if brings together a LOT of things we look for in a delicious white.
Almost-clear pale legal-pad in the glass, the nose exudes wet newsprint and composted vegetal, a heady dusty floral and bruised too-ripe citrus headed pungent directions away from sharp acid. But a stony rasp pulls one part smoky wood and equal parts stewed tropical and petrichor from the depths of used lemon-rinds. It’s a glorious bouquet, elegant and expressive, PACKED with complexity.
It enters the mouth full and swollen, pulsing with virve and barely-contained youthful exuberance. Sweet 7-Up nectar carries the sharp probe of acidity in quantities nearly appearing effervescent. Steely, thick body–teeth-wipingly rich and brilliantly bittered–pounds green apricot and firm kiwi into every receptor. Peach-pit and pithy bark enliven the modest fruit with body and structure into areas almost approaching tannic. Finishing dry and sultry, grapefruit minerality aching from every pore, the fruit calm and continuous in its prudish manner.
I know it’s only January, but this is the best white wine I’ve had this year. And I don’t expect that award to be toppled soon. An unforgettable label–and an unforgettable wine.
2020 IN SERRATA ‘Inusuale’ Bianco Sangiovese Toscana IGT 13.0
Stephen McConnell 