Might just be the best Ken Volk wine I can remember. Medium-density, transparent ruby with an almost-psychological amber at the rim. Glorious nose, packed with weedy vegetal brightness and sharp spice: sagebrush and olive oil carefully sandwiching robust black cherry and blood orange.
A light, easy version of a variety I think we all pretty much assume is gonna be a black monster. The fruit is delicate–almost thin–suspended in cool spring-water refreshment bursting with stony rigidity and chalk. Even-keeled throughout the palate, it doesn’t slap you in the face or insult or clog any pipes: it’s just calm and beautiful–wracked with acid–showing just a *hair* of polish at 7. Then the tannin hits, and we’re back to TANNAT 101 all over again! I think this thing is just about at peak–wouldn’t push it much further, as it’s just so NICE to drink right now, and I feel fruit will become a shadow in the next few years.
2014 KENNETH VOLK Tannat Bella Colina Vyd Paso Robles 13.8
Stephen McConnell 