Had a hankering for a big rich white–but without the issues Chardonnay can often bring to the table–and grabbed another one of these Grillos from Sicily. Thick vegetal and barnyard in the nose, laid down on rich mineral, plum and apricot. There’s a buttery viscosity to it, latched so firmly into delicate floral and fruit the combined nature of concentration is surprising.
Crisp and direct in the mouth, shockingly cool while composing a full range of white wine grip and fruit. Beautiful bitter sandpaper ices rich pear and green melon, the citrus a soft Meyer lemon and the acidic edges of grapefruit minerality polished and smooth. The middle goes watery and refreshing, before sappy tannin swells deep into the raspy finish. So full, so flush, so devastatingly PACKED with gorgeous nuance and fruit bound around lees & barrel aging, I’m fairly certain I could convert a few Chablis stalwarts with this wine.
2019 DUCA DI SALAPARUTA ‘Kados’ Grillo IGT Terre Siciliane Italy 13.0
Stephen McConnell 