Ran into this guy a couple months ago–I had never heard of him OR his label–turns out he goes way back in the local wine-distribution industry and now has his own little brand from Paso. Wouldn’t ya know it: a week or so later a bottle shows up on my doorstep.
Deep clear garnet in the glass, with considerable ambering toward the rim, causing me to lean toward Grenache–fortified by the first few sniffs. A sweet cherry plumpness suggest considerable Zin: thick layers of molasses and licorice swimming in chocolate-maple syrup. Dense and delirious with considerable vanilla briar, it will definitely be a crowd-pleaser.
In the mouth, the delicious dessert-like qualities continue unabridged by acid or substantial structure. Flabbiness is somewhat held in check by bitter background and spicy heat. These–like many from the region–are what the wine relies on to charade acid and tannin, creating a balance better defined as “yummy” than “complex”. Fairly flaccid in its expectant swollen berry and cherry, the finish dries chalkily with welcome green-bitter for a bit of redemption.
This is a fine little wine, one I could sell END CAPS of and BTG it would run in the gutters: only offensive if scrutinized pendantically. Is it for me? No, but that’s just my palate. And my preferred style of wine does not sell club memberships, allocation waiting-lists, or tickets to live music at dog friendly tastings. This bottle does all that with ease.
2017 TORCH CELLARS ‘Melange’ Zin/SY/GR 50/25/25 Willow Creek Dist. Paso Robles 15.45
Stephen McConnell 