Coming out of our ZOOM/IGlive tasting with Ribera Y Rueda this afternoon, wanted to drop some notes on the 2017 Cochesa, as it identified quite differently than last night’s–and also in the tasting–Crianza. While the view-shed is wide-open mesa plains–at about 2000 feet–and there is no maritime influence–only the Duero river–the climate–seasonally AND diurnally–hits a lot like Paso Robles, and the wine has considerable comparabilities. Blisteringly hot summers and sub-freezing winters, the vines squat head-trained survivors in this harsh landscape. All added up: it’s warm; it’s ripe; it’s concentrated and robust; rather hi alcohol from this tinto fino regional variant of Tempranillo, naturally glowing with robustness and power.
Impenetrable ruby with blue-purple rim. Heady nose packed with thick berry, floral, licorice and leather. Dusty and rich, the alcohol tinging nostrils and the pure concentration of ridiculous berry a show-stopping affair. Chubby and round, unmistakable acid and citrus minerality comes off in waves in a splendor sure to cause knee-knocking in the *bigger-is-better* crowd. Juicy bits of perceived sweetness roil the body, the whole thing unstoppable and ridiculously dense.
In the mouth, expected rusticity is tempered with modern maceration and clean aging in a way highlighting both. Chewy with grip, un-resolved tannin a formidable beast from near-entry through last-gasps. And yet it drinks shockingly well: the modern winemaker’s conundrum personified. Cherry both dense and pie-spiced, black walnut ire churning throughout, the clean shriek of acid peeling the paint off your tongue and color you can TASTE staining your fillings. Pine needle and sharp earth decry barnyard leanings as the dry forever finish PLEADS for another decade of cellar. Bitter and black while cheerily fruited, buy a case of this inexpensive monster and drink one a year.
2017 BODEGAS FINCA LA CAPILLA ‘Vendimia Seleccionada’ Cosecha Tempranillo Ribera Del Duero Spain 15.0
Stephen McConnell 