I have a soft spot for Chenin, and if it’s *old-vine*, I’m all in. Pale green in the glass, with a nose that quite matches. Muddled with funky barnyard, a crisp blood-orange and kale exudes round citrus and distinct vegetal, while apple forms the mild fruity base. Earthy and savory, it manages both salty fog air and California sunshine, but in a package ridiculously lean and bright.

The thick wonder of the variety hits the tongue hard, buttery to an *extent*, but delicate enough to defy gravity as it splashes watery and elegant over the palate, the light sizzle of acid a perfect counter-point to plum and pear. Gradually richening over the middle, this is definitely a near-cellar-temp drinker, as cooler approaches sharpen and dent the absolute gorgeousness of the wine. Up around 60–probably 20 degrees warmer than MOST will drink it–the body flushes out into rich nectar, the dusty influences of vine and mineral focused and supple. Old-world feeling in its cellar-floor and woodsy notes, young and natural in its bright citrus and lack of chub or alcohol, this is a beautiful wine through-and-through.

2020 LADY AMHERST ‘Old Vine’ Chenin Blanc Paso Robles 12.0

www.ladyamherstwines.com/