Fairly dark ruby fading out gradually to thin pink at the rim. Lush, cherry nose pulling candied thoughts and dessert-spice dreams into reality in a rather one-dimensional elixir of plushness. Allspice and nutmeg play cinnamon charades on Jolly Rancher fruit feigning sobriety and elegance but mostly just playing to the candy-crowd of lip-smacking passers-by. While steely of bouquet, with subtle briary aspects lurking, the deep dark cherry instincts and vague *pinot* influences denote clear marketing goals.

Tasting it waters things back a bit into actual varietal-correctness, but barely. Early conflict between construed acid and imaginary vegetal results in citrus reaching heights of bitter concentration the cheery, robust blackberry can hardly swallow. But they are carefully dialed back before the crowd-pleasing main event hits the stage. Thin in areas it shouldn’t be and rich in other awkward places, the whole thing comes off dis-jointed and plasticine. But: the yumminess presented to those who don’t think too hard about such things is hard to argue with. The ripeness feels watery–I guessed a full point above label–and begs the question: DO we make a 14+ wine thick and delicious or DO we thin that syrup down to a nice agreeable 13-flat for somm-conscience sake? You decide. Chubby and un-tannic in finish, an acerola rasp the last–also failed–gasp at redemption.

2019 LINGUA FRANCA ‘The Plow’ Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Oregon 13.0

www.linguafranca.wine/