This is a MASSIVE wine, I mean, like, PASO proportions, and loyal readers will know I’m a bit gun-shy on these horsepower Syrahs (see what I did there?). I don’t decant a lot of Syrahs, but this one immediately went under the air-knife, in hopes of drawing some varietal complexity out of its sheer volume. Dark med-ruby with a purple rim, it lavishes ridiculously thick black cherry and alcohol into your face. Chunky, chubby and syrupy in the nose, you need an axe to dissect individual elements out of the bouquet, but–in keeping with current tastes–probably a 99-point wine. A little shrubbery and briar peek through with some breathing, but mostly it’s just HUGE concentrated fruit.
Tasting it is a chore. I’m sorry, I just can’t be particularly nice to wines like this. I know they’re popular; I know they get lofty scores; I know #winebro garners them with relish; but boy-oh-boy is it a mouthful. I want to say 15-5, but knowing Washington: probably a full point lower. A saving grace is the high-note of chalky shrillness cascading over the middle, cooling the tongue and spiking the wine. It’s a lot more nuanced in the mouth than the nose proclaims, going actually quite cool and far more into the realm of “Syrah” I enjoy. Gobs of leather and sweet caramel pack the core, with the finish going rather light on tannin–more shrill and thin. I’m not complaining about that! Ridiculously young in vibrancy and texture, an argument could easily be made for two decades in the cellar–provided the heat and concentration don’t go flabby on you. Your call.
2018 REVELRY VINTNERS Aerials Series ‘Block 19’ Syrah Weinbau Vyd Columbia Valley Washington 14.5
Stephen McConnell 