Poor Soil

I always like to buy a few *other varieties* at wineries on press-trips–one’s we’re not THERE for–and on the recent Bardolino Chiaretto expedition, grabbed this BDX-blend from organic winery Casaretti. Distinctly old-world in nose, copious cellar-floor, petrichor and clean barnyard pack a bouquet rather flush with vegetal briar and big dark fruit. Earthy and unctuous, the berry sharp and packed with plum and nectarine. Transparent rose in the glass, a thin rim of pinkish garnet lining its semi-staining capabilities.

Gorgeous spiciness in the mouth, the clean wash of spring flowers and lush greenery telling of maritime influence on grateful soils and warm sunshine. Crisp and direct, the fruit a chalky paste of black cherry and mineral, blood-orange and ripe lemon coating the seedy bitter of structure. Strong strawberry-rhubarb quell shy injections of vanilla and root-beer, the whole package about as anti-California as can be imagined. Tiny polishings of leather and caramel hint at tertiary, but it has years to go before serious age reflects. Delicious in every detail, it exists as power-statement for any *natural* or low-intervention fan of these varieties. Wine-writer and #influencer would call this “a food wine”–their knee-jerk asterisk portrayed onto any bottle they find too acidic to sell to the 99%. This is merely a wonderful European cab-merlot, not needing a pigeon-hole, but simply enjoyed for the ability to portray these grapes onto the palate as God intended.

2018 CASARETTI WINE FARM ‘Tera Magra’ Cab/ME 50/50 Bardolino IGT Veneto Italy 14.0


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