In the grand scheme of *sparkling white wines*, this it fairly stunning. Where you expect rough edges and jutting angles come easy fruit and serious aplomb. LOTS of gas–the mousse rising to beer-head proportions in the mild-canary glass before settling down to lazy streamers idly coursing from the bottom. Smoky and rigid in the nose, a mild tropical allegiance to grass and summer warmth grazing the bouquet.

A bit tight in the mouth, most assuredly owed to the dosage being WELL under ‘brut’ international guidelines… And it’s interesting: we had this conversation a few weeks ago about how *Extra Brut* does not exist in the US. Well, HERE IT IS. Comfortably between Natural extents and Brut minimums comes this wine, and the mouthfeel assuredly reflects it. The innate chubbiness of the variety contributes gobs toward easing angular stiffness, and it’s a perfect blend. Rich and round in essence alone, merciless chunks of peach and banana plumping the palate–but all the while sharp points of carbonation prod and probe the tongue, tightening the experience with glassine shards of light and breath. The finish runs dusty-dirty–again, as one would expect from savory Chardonnay–but no sweetness graces the postlude: only the bitter, bubbly grasp of great white wine.

2019 SIDEQUEST CELLARS Sparkling Chardonnay Central Coast California 12.4 5g/l

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