The purple florescent glow of ridiculously-staining Mendo PS in unmistakable. The heady floral velvet is trademark, and the raspy, grating mineralific dust classic in depth and character. Glycerine body soothes all ills while pungent spice inflames receptors with aplomb. This is a stupidly-delicious wine–I don’t even need to taste it.

Fruit explodes into cat’s-tongue texture all over the palate. The balance achieved here in sharp direction and deep contemplation causes pause. It’s grainy and gritty but sweet-fruited: pie-cherry and raspberry christening the voluminous body like spiky cream-cheese frosting massaging dense carrot cake. Tannins are a black, beautiful affair–perfectly integrated into the body. Let’s be frank: This is Durif GOALS, a welcome and expected experience from this far-north corner of California. One of my favorite varieties and this thing makes all the boring bottles sulk in mediocrity.

2019 BARRA Petite Sirah ‘Estate’ Mendocino Co. California 14.8

www.barraofmendocino.com/