Checking in on inexpensive satellites is important at 5 years… Occasionally you’ll find one which continues to blossom into a decade and beyond, but the majority are hitting their stride and will top out at 10 or shortly thereafter. Big, rich cherry nose on this one, ripe and sultry, feeling very *warm* and toasty, with fruit muddled down into a concentrated syrup over still-bristly briar and mineral. Dustiness has gone the way of leather, and spice headed velvety directions in a way quite showing its age.

California-flabby in the mouth, the blackberry reduced down into sweet nectar, although firmly edged with spirit throughout medium-garnet body. Sharp and spicy over the middle, a richness parted with shards of tannin and acid consumating in a raspy-dry, watery finish rimmed with fruit. Thickness vs. thin-ness reflect an odd justaposition, but overall still a fairly delicious wine–just don’t think about it too hard.

2016 CHATEAU BERTIN ME/CF 70/30 Famille Saby Montagne St-Emilion BDX 14.0

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