This is a very interesting wine–and one I don’t dislike, surprisingly. First of all, it is the cleanest, least-natty, or awkwardly-nuanced *orange wine* you’ve ever had. It really just feels like a rosé–and we all know there’s a fine line between the two. Also the make-up tells a tale of “white wine”, “red wine” and a full-fruited final ingredient. How much actual *skin contact* this wine relies on for body and texture remains a story the house should tell–I’m just here to explain how it tastes.
Amber-golden in the glass, a huge nose of sweet distinction and fleshy fruit. Ripe pear and peach, even some tropical, with deep mineral chunks and glassine body flush with round nectar and balanced vegetal green-ness.
Tasting it releases more sweetness on the tongue, though considerable grit and acid tinge the palate with verve and spiciness. It’s not my favorite rosé in the world–but neither is it my least favorite orange wine. As far as *orange wine* goes, it is the best thing you’ve ever tried, and very well could be the poster-child for skin-contact ambassador-ship. It’s GOOD. It’s actually quite yummy: the sweetness yearning for simple quaffing while the texture begs for more-careful contemplation. The finish vague and watery, but throughout: a wine of shocking clarity and focus. I don’t hate this wine, and BTG fantasies abound where it nicely fills the gap between rosé, serious white wine, and even light reds.
2021 BONNY DOON ‘Le Cigare Orange’ GB/GR/Orange Muscat 80/10/10 Central Coast CA 10.5
Stephen McConnell 