Silver Bullet

Popped an older GEO a few weeks back, and decided to visit something younger tonight… see where that whole thing takes you. For me, these represent fairly accurate examples of modern Napa cab, with plenty of bits and pieces mixed in to keep *homogenation* at bay.

Dark staining ruby in the glass, a nose thick and rich, mired down in angry vegetal and dusty corridors. There’s a barnyard beauty to this one: the glorious black cherry taking a back seat to sharp spires of Christmas spice and layer upon layer of decadent earthy, buttery wonder and aplomb. Decanted vigorously, and with air solidifies trusty elegance while mineral and tannin glow from the bouquet harshly. Just the way we like them. Nothing chubbily rotund in the nose, it’s all violent green atop supple fruit.

A bit hot and decidely young on the palate: all the pond-water savory warmth from the nose going pointedly sharp and agressive in the mouth. The berry carries ridiculous concentration, and brings with it shocking acid and tangy grip. SO STUPIDLY YOUNG: a mouth-feel craving for a decade or more in the cellar while still showing the things MOST consumers will drink this wine for YEARS before its prime. Chalky, bitter–almost thin–body shows the kinds of things wine 1%ers find compelling in a cab: they’ve managed to compose a serious version here, redolent of Togni or Forman or Kennedy or Ridge in its ability to trancend short-term palates in favor of historic aggression tilted toward those who know. I’m rather in awe of this wine–and you should be too. Buy as much as you can afford. Buy a case: drink one every two years. It’s damn near perfection.

2018 SILVERADO VINEYARDS ‘Geo’ Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville Napa Valley 14.7

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