I have too many of these… they are so fun to buy and drink, and NOT designed for cellaring–at least I am sure the intent is not there–for a wine comfotably under 10 bucks. So I pried this one away from its siblings because I wanted something easy and comfortable: and that’s what it is.
Dark ruby with a hint of brick at the rim. Meaty, oily nose, deep with dank cherry and berry, a tertiary headed barnyard in glorious ways: muddy earth and compost and aching savory, but nothing detracting from jellied fruit. I’m not sure I would call this blind at almost 7–not even sure I could call the variety: maybe Carignane, or even old-vine Mourvedre, Chinon or Bordelais Cab-Franc. Positively gorgeous to smell.
Tasting it presents an acerbic wonder on the palate, a slight tired toastiness on entry exemplifying the age but going pure Welch’s grape juice there-after. It has nuances of Concord–which I love, having grown up on fresh juice from home vineyards–a raspy, slightly rotund mouth-feel backed up with touches of alcohol and tannin. When these are young, they present a geeky, Cru Beaujolais-ish patina that will stump ANYONE, but here, we have a calm, secure adult, writhing in solemnity and polished to perfection. Bitter briar seals the finish, but it’s a cool, clean wash of beauty. The problem with this wine is it is SO cheap and so delicious, it’s almost impossible not to buy too much. And when were you going to drink it?
2015 J. LOHR ‘Wildflower’ Valdiguie Arroyo Seco AVA Monterey Co. California 12 point MF 5
Stephen McConnell 