This is a big wine. Nearly impenetrable in density, a nose wafting waves of hi-proof concentration akin to the finest current Napa-bling offerings. But at a PP manageable to most folks. I’m not saying it’s cheap, but well-shopped can come in well under a bill. Dark, dank, weedy briar edges the jam-packed berry, showing clean Coombsville fruit where valley-staples excel in dusty earthiness. It still manages plenty of rocky dust and farmyard soil in the bouquet, but clean, fruit-driven suppleness rules the day here. Tinged with green vibrancy, the alcohol shines through, granting black-walnut and black-cherry raspy elegance throughout.
Tasting this staining 5YO pulls up more concentration. Clearly a baby, elements of polish barely glow through: years to go before any sort of “velvety reduction” or “leather tertiary” make strong points. Fruit fades behind strong structure, but balance is there, my only concern the heat it displays on the tongue. Spicy and sharp, nothing about this wine is particularly *gorgeous*, but all the elements are there for serious cellar-age and long-term enjoyment. It drinks rather like a barrel-sample, something I can’t usually say for something of this age. Brittle and angular, the plum and pear an almost afterthought behind ridiculous tannin. This could polish out to something quite magnificent, but it will take another decade. How many consumers have that patience? I do, but…. This could be literally one of the most garishly structured long-term cellar candidates from Napa Valley today, or it could be just another hi-alc macerated wonder for the *bigger-is-better* crowd. Your call.
2016 SILVERADO VINEYARDS ‘GEO’ Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville Napa Valley 14.7