I honestly think a lot of these large-production 11’s are at peak–despite my fantasies of them living forever. Had two Napa’s last week: a Block 19 and a BV Ruth, BOTH of which showed signs of fatigue-cusp. So I just had to head up to Sonoma Mountain and one of my favorite labels: THE WOLF-HOUSE.
I’m expecting my Sonoma’s to be a bit grungier than Napa and am not disappointed. Muddy ruby density in the glass–impenetrable–with a hint of brick before the sliver of clear rim. Earthy, squished-bug briar and sharp compost vegetal nose distilled down into harsh cherry with an acidic high-note. It’s deep and brooding, addled and sullied with bruised fruit and leather. The thing I keep noticing about these 11’s is how they don’t show ridiculous tertiary: they are merely a sharp juxtaposition between fruit and acid. Perhaps a dumb phase? This one also blasts considerable eucalyptus.
But let’s taste it. The word I’m going to describe this fruit as is “sharply dank”. Oh… but how beautiful it is. The eucalyptus is still presiding in the mouth–NOT something I expected from Jack London Vineyard at this age. Fruit a stark relationship between ripe graininess and sharp acid, but here I don’t feel the *fade* quite as hard as the afore-mentioned two. It’s all working together and this may outlive them all. I hope I have some more of these for the next decade.
2011 KENWOOD Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mt. Sonoma Co. 13.5